Vivienne Westwood APAC
WONDERLAND
奇境樂園
Narrative is always an integral component of Vivienne Westwood’s design process – part of a rich and long-lasting heritage of storytelling though decorative arts. “My clothes have a story,” she said. “They have a character and a purpose.”
Inspired by the love of Ancient Greece and Rome, myth and fable often inspire Westwood’s designs, with references to fantastical imaginary creatures. Some of these were drawn from baroque and rococo artworks, alongside figures from traditional Italian commedia dell‘arte theatre as featured in the 18th century paintings of Antoine Watteau. There are also references to traditional British legends such as the tales of King Arthur and his court, as well as the Mitteleuropa fairy-tales of the Brothers Grimm and Hansel and Gretel. All illustrate Westwood’s enthusiasm for literature. Vivienne once stated that the best accessory is a book, and in turn she looked to literary personae and stories to inspire her designs, even sometimes using illustrations from novels and prints of books themselves in the collections.
Westwood jewellery often explores notions of the fantastical, the unreal and the fairy-tale, with exaggerated scale, unreal colours and bizarre juxtapositions of elements. They seem to have been pulled from imaginary stories. There is a childlike sense of wonder and excitement, an innocence in exaggerated and naive forms – but also a sophisticated game reminiscent of the Surrealists, displacing insects and flowers to the human body and recreating them in unexpected materials such as metal and ceramic, or adorning jewellery with feathers and hair as if themselves alive.
講故事始終是Vivienne Westwood設計過程中不可或缺的一部分,透過裝飾藝術使得故事講述成為華麗、恆久典藏的一部分。「我設計的時裝都是有故事的,」她說,「它們有着各自的性格和使命。」
受古希臘和羅馬博愛文化的啟發,神話和寓言常常為Vivienne Westwood的設計帶來靈感,包括幻想中的虛構造物。有一些來自巴洛克和洛可可藝術作品,還有Antoine Watteau 18世紀畫作中意大利傳統即興喜劇劇院的人物。傳統的英國傳說也是創作之源,如亞瑟王和他的宮廷故事,格林兄弟的中歐童話以及《奇幻森林歷險記》。所有這些都展示了Vivienne Westwood對經典文學的熱情。Vivienne Westwood曾說過,最好的配飾是一本書,反過來,她又從文學中的人物和故事中汲取靈感,有時甚至會在設計系列中直接使用小說插圖和書籍印花。
Vivienne Westwood珠寶設計常常探索奇幻、縹緲、童話般的理念,誇張的比例、虛幻的顏色和奇異的元素並置。這些元素似乎取自虛構的故事中。讓人感受到一種孩子般的驚奇和興奮,一種誇張而樸實的天真—也有以繁複的花式取代昆蟲和花朵,讓人想起超現實主義。將這些花式復刻到人體上,然後用金屬和陶瓷等等意想不到的材料重新再現,或者用羽毛和頭髮來妝點配飾,顯得栩栩如生。
SNAIL BROOCH
SNAIL BROOCH 蝸牛胸針
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2000 Collection
Gold Label 金標2000春夏
Brass / Real Snail Shell
氧化鍍銀黃銅、蝸牛殼
A rare example of a precise reproduction from life, these delicate and surreal ‘Snail’ jewels featured in Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2000 and Spring/Summer 2002 collections. Both were inspired by Ancient Greek mythologies, and echoed the bucolic pastoral idylls imagined by Westwood’s favoured artists, Antoine Watteau and François Boucher. The snail brooches and necklaces feature found real snail shells and brass bodies, positioned at odd intervals as if they slithered across sleeping bodies. Westwood often enjoyed toying with surreal ideas and creating accessories and clothes that could pretend to be something other – trompe l’oeil is often seen throughout her work.
The snail motif appeared in the Spring-Summer 2000 'Summertime' collection, which looked to the symbolism of Bacchus - the Roman god of agriculture, wine and fertility. Jewelry was fashioned in the form of snails (with real shells), as if they had slithered across slumbering bodies in a forest.
精緻而超現實的「蝸牛」配飾是精確復刻生活的罕見典範,曾出現在Vivienne Westwood 2000春夏和2002春夏的系列中。這些作品的創作都受到了古希臘神話的啟發,並與Vivienne Westwood最為鍾情的藝術家Antoine Watteau和François Boucher所想像的田園牧歌遙相呼應。蝸牛胸針和頸鏈的特點是使用了真正的蝸牛殼和黃銅作為主體,設置間隔十分新奇,彷彿滑過熟睡的身體。Vivienne Westwood常常善於操弄超現實主義想法,創造出可以假扮其他風格的配飾和衣服—在她的作品中經常出現畫風錯覺。
「Snail(蝸牛)」圖騰出現於 2000 春夏「Summertime」系列,該系列靈感源自巴克斯(Bacchus)的象徵意涵—他是羅馬神話中農業、葡萄酒與生育之神。該系列的珠寶以蝸牛造型呈現(並使用真實蝸牛殼),彷彿牠們在森林中爬行,滑過沉睡的人體之上。
GUINEVERE NECKLACE
GUINEVERE頸鏈
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2016/17 Collection
Oxidised Brass
A reference to the Medieval British legend of King Arthur, this necklace is named after his wife and queen Guinevere. The rough-hewn chain and pendant of this design nod towards the heavy armour of the Middle Ages, a period Vivienne Westwood often draws inspiration from. Both the design and the oxidised brass surface imply that the item itself may be a relic of a distant past, a piece imbued with meaning and with its own story to tell.
這條頸鏈是參照中世紀英國亞瑟王的傳奇,以他的妻子、王后 Guinevere的名字命名的。設計的粗糙鏈條和吊墜與中世紀的厚重盔甲相呼應,Vivienne Westwood常常從中世紀時期汲取靈感。復古設計和氧化黃銅表面都暗示着這一物件本身可能來自遙遠過去的遺跡,是一件充滿意義且有著自己故事的作品。
LISETTE EARRING
LISETTE耳環
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2019 Collection
AK-VW時裝—2019春夏
Resin / Brass
樹脂、鍍金黃銅
Designed for the Spring/Summer 2019 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show, these earrings are a kitsch, childish delight of pastel colours and applications of hearts, smiley faces, and sweets. They bear out Charles Baudelaire’s declaration that “Genius is nothing more nor less than childhood recovered at will,” meaning a fresh discovery of everyday items with the wonder of innocence. Here, a genuine beauty is found in these typical symbols, a gleeful pleasure discovered in their application.
This Lisette style appeared in Spring-Summer 2019 collection, titled 'OK…It's Showtime.' The piece features an asymmetrical heart motif, reminiscent of Vivienne's affection for both humanity and the planet. This fanciful style of the piece features signature elements of the house's iconography, notably the bow motif, hardware-inspired dog clips or the 'A&V' branding, symbolising Andreas and Vivienne's union.
這套耳環為 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 2019春夏系列特別設計,擁有朦朧的、孩子般的歡悅,融合了柔和的色彩與心形、笑臉和糖果圖案。耳環設計擁護Charles Baudelaire,即「天才無非是恣意回歸的童年」,這意味着對日常用品的新發現,以及天真無邪創造的奇跡。在這裏,從這些典型的符號中發現真正的美,在它們的應用中發現快樂的秘密。
「Lisette」款式出現於 2019 春夏「OK…It’s Showtime」系列。此作品採用不對稱心形圖案,象徵 Vivienne 對人類與地球的關懷與熱愛。
這款富有想像力的設計融合了品牌標誌性圖騰元素,包括蝴蝶結、受五金零件啟發的狗扣(dog clips),以及「A&V」品牌標誌,象徵 Andreas 與 Vivienne 的結合。