Vivienne Westwood APAC
DO IT YOURSELF
自己動手
A self-taught designer, the idea of Do It Yourself, or DIY, is in the bones of Vivienne Westwood. As leader of the punk movement, she encouraged people to make their own clothes in emulation of the styles she designed – later, in reflection of her activism, she instructed the public to buy less, and to improvise their own clothes and accessories – a necklace of safety-pins, for instance, made at home. This is a radical and deeply subversive proposition for any designer, shifting the power of creation from their own hands to others.
The pieces in this space explore the idea of DIY through expressions of artisanship and elevation of commonplace objects, recycling and reusing ordinary items to extraordinary effect. There seems to be an innocence to these items, but they are the result of highly sophisticated thought processes. Notions of bricolage – assemblages created from non-conventional objects and materials, often discarded items – and objet trouvé or ‘found objects’, are more commonly associated with contemporary art, but here are applied to fashion. These ideas are especially radical in terms of jewellery, traditionally pure expressions of affluence and status. In this work, Westwood questions fundamentals of the human urge to adorn.
Westwood’s DIY ethos can be tied to a criticism of capitalism and over-consumption that underscored her work throughout her career. Westwood never designed with the idea of expressing wealth, nor to satiate consumer demands. Westwood’s creations are expressions of beliefs, championing intelligence, culture and ecological and political concerns.
作為一名自學成才的設計師,Vivienne Westwood將DIY精神灌注骨子裡。作為龐克運動的先驅者,她不僅鼓勵人們效仿她設計的風格自製服飾,更將這種理念昇華為社會行動—後期的環保倡議中,她倡導「理性消費」,並親自示範如何改造舊衣—例如,用家用安全別針製作標誌性頸鏈。這種將創作權交還大眾的做法,打破了傳統時尚體系中設計師與消費者之間的界限,賦予個體自我表達與創作的自由,在時尚界堪稱革命性的突破。
此處的作品展露了普通物品可以實現的工藝和水準,探索DIY的創意,回收並再利用普通物品也可以達到非凡的效果。這些物件看起來返璞歸真,但卻是高度複雜思維過程的結果。
拼湊概念—由非傳統物品和材料(通常是丟棄的物件,—以及隨手拾到或「偶然發現」的物品)進行組合,通常與當代藝術相關聯,在這裡被用於表達時尚。這種創意對於珠寶而言十分激進,傳統上認為珠寶純粹是財富和地位的象徵。在這些作品中,Vivienne Westwood對人類裝飾慾望的基礎提出了質疑。
Vivienne Westwood的「自主創造」理念,本質上是對過度資本主義和消費主義的深刻反思—這種批判精神貫穿其整個設計生涯。她從未將設計視為財富的炫耀工具,也拒絕迎合消費主義的短期需求。每一件作品都是其信仰的具象化表達:致力於傳播智慧、深耕人文關懷,並持續關注生態保護與社會議題。
GARANCE NECKLACE
GARANCE頸鏈
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AUTUMN-WINTER 2001/02 COLLECTION
Red Label 紅標2001/2002秋冬
Old Broken Jewellery Pieces / Crystal / Brass
古董珠寶、水晶、鍍銠黃銅
Created for Vivienne Westwood’s Autumn/Winter 2001 collection Wild Beauty, this necklace is actually recycled from fragments of older jewellery pieces in crystal and brass. Broken apart and reassembled, they also echo a long historical tradition of re-designing gems from older fine jewellery pieces into new designs. That action reflected the inherent worth of the precious stones – here, the action is emblematic of Westwood’s urge to find alternate value in unexpected places.
The Garance necklace appeared in the Autumn-Winter 2001/02 collection, titled 'Wild Beauty' - which symbolised universal love, spiritual law and spiritual awakening. The piece itself is made of reassembled pieces from broken jewellery found in car-boot sales and markets. The style conforms to Vivienne's signature DIY approach, which looks to create something new and beautiful from the old.
這條頸鏈是為Vivienne Westwood 2001秋冬系列「Wild Beauty」設計的,實際上使用的是從水晶和黃銅製成的舊珠寶碎片中回收的材料,打破之後重新組裝,呼應將故舊高級珠寶重新設計成新作的悠久歷史傳統。這一設計反映了寶石的固有價值—在這裡,象徵著Vivienne Westwood努力在意料之外的地方尋找重現輝煌價值的機會。
Garance頸鏈出現於 2001/02 秋冬系列「Wild Beauty」,該系列象徵普世之愛、精神法則與靈性覺醒。
此作品由在汽車後車廂市集與各類市場中收集的破損珠寶重新組合而成。整體設計延續 Vivienne 標誌性的 DIY 創作理念,旨在從舊有物件中創造嶄新且美麗的事物。
BIRD WATCHES
BIRD WATCHES 鳥形鐘錶
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AUTUMN-WINTER 2005/06 COLLECTION
Gold Label 金標2005/2006秋冬
Broken Watches / Vintage Compass / Pencil
偶拾物品、手錶零件、鍍銀黃銅
Time is an idea Vivienne Westwood often explores: the façade of World’s End features a 13-hour clock, its hands spinning backwards, and Westwood’s investigation of past fashion has been well documented. Here, components of antique watches are decontextualised and appropriated to form the intentionally naïve form of a bird, resembling a Dadaist assemblage of discovered pieces, an idea that originated with the cubist constructions of Pablo Picasso, whose art Westwood had printed onto clothes in the early 1980s and whose radicalism she emulated, consciously or not.
The Bird Watch brooch style appeared in the Autumn-Winter 2005/06 collection, titled 'Propaganda' - featuring a design that follows Vivienne's signature DIY approach. The 'Propaganda' collection marked a reset of both Vivienne Westwood's aesthetics and intentions. Her work would from now on be overtly and explicitly shaped by her political, social and environmental concerns. The piece itself features reassembled pieces from broken watches and tools, by means of creating something new from the old.
時間是Vivienne Westwood經常探索的一個概念—「Worlds End」店面上方有一個13小時的鐘,指針逆向旋轉,完整記錄對過去時尚的探索。在這裡,古董手錶的組件被解構、重組,形成一隻天然樸素的鳥兒,類似達達主義者發現的作品組合,這一想法起源於畢加索的立體派建築,Vivienne Westwood在20世紀80年代初將畢加索的藝術作品印在時尚服裝上,有意無意在模仿畢加索的激進主義。
鳥形鐘錶 胸針款式出現於 2005/06 秋冬系列「Propaganda」,該設計延續 Vivienne 標誌性的 DIY 創作手法。 「Propaganda」系列標誌著 Vivienne Westwood 在美學與創作理念上的一次重啟;自此之後,她的作品更加直接且明確地受到政治、社會與環境議題的影響。 此作品本身由破損手錶與工具重新組合而成,透過將舊物再造,創造出嶄新之物。
SPOON EARRINGS
SPOON EARRINGS 匙墜耳環
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AUTUMN-WINTER 2019/20 COLLECTION
中性,2019/2020秋冬
Brass / Real Gold Spoon
錫羹、氧化黃銅
In 1983, Vivienne Westwood first used spoons and the lids of tin cans as jewels and buttons for her Punkature collection – a direct reflection of the idea of the artistic notion of objet trouvé (found object). Allied with her ecological activism, here spoons are recycled and transformed into ‘precious’ jewellery simply by suspending them from the ear. Westwood’s design is often about transforming perception of the existing as much as it is creating anew.
The Spoon Earrings appeared in the Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2019/20 collection, named 'Homo Loquax.' The style follows Vivienne's signature DIY approach to design, where something old would be used to create new, beautiful pieces.
1983年,Vivienne Westwood在其「Punkature」系列中,首次將湯匙與鋁罐蓋改造為珠寶與鈕扣,直接反映了「objet trouvé」的創作理念。這結合她一直倡導的環保主張,簡簡單單將回收利用的匙羹掛在耳朵上,就可以變成「珍貴」的配飾。Vivienne Westwood的設計哲學往往在於對既有物品的感知重構,創造新事物的同時,改變人們對現有事物的看法。
匙墜耳環出現於 Vivienne Westwood 2019/20 秋冬系列「Homo Loquax」。
此設計延續 Vivienne 標誌性的 DIY 創作手法,透過運用舊物來重新組合,創造出嶄新且富有美感的作品。
CROCHET NECKLACE
CROCHET NECKLACE 鉤針頸鏈
Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2000/01 Collection
Gold Label 金標2000/2001秋冬
Wool / Plated Brass Findings
羊毛、鍍金黃銅
Preciousness can have different meanings: this necklace is hand-crocheted from wool and while its material may seem humble its final form represents hours of costly labour, allied to the work within haute couture clothing so cherished by Vivienne Westwood. Highly sophisticated and intricate hand-knitting featuring complex motifs and patterns was a craft-form Westwood often included in her collections: she herself was an expert knitter and made many of the samples with her own hands.
The Crochet earrings appeared in the Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2000/21 show named 'Winter' - referencing a sonnet by William Shakespeare. Vivienne would hand-knit herself. This piece follows a classic Parrure style, popular during the Victorian era - and often used as a decorative piece or for fancy dress.
在Vivienne Westwood的世界裡,「珍貴」從不只關乎材質,而在於手工匠藝與創作者賦予作品的情感。這款頸鏈以毛線手工鉤織而成,樸實材質蘊藏著耗時費力的精湛工藝,與Vivienne Westwood鍾愛的高級訂製精神契合。非常精巧的手工編織技藝編制出複雜的圖樣,成為常見於Westwood作品系列的工藝。Vivienne Westwood本人亦是一位技藝嫻熟的編織師,親手完成過無數設計樣品。
鉤針頸鏈出現於 Vivienne Westwood 2020/21 秋冬「Winter」系列時裝秀,該系列靈感來自威廉·莎士比亞(William Shakespeare)的十四行詩。
Vivienne 本人也會親手編織針織作品。此設計延續經典配飾風格,該風格在維多利亞時期相當流行,常被用作裝飾性配飾或變裝服飾的一部分。