Vivienne Westwood APAC
EXPLORATION
探索
Curiosity characterises Vivienne Westwood’s work – she had a thirst for knowledge, always questioning and exploring different approaches. Studying other cultures, from other times and from around the world, investigating other belief systems, aesthetics and traditions to develop new ways of seeing. For over a decade, Vivienne Westwood have collaborated with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre, United Nations, creating accessories collections with artisans in Kenya and Burkina Faso to celebrate indigenous craft.
This space explores the theme of exploration – and how Westwood’s work interacts with different cultures, philosophies, and methodologies – reflecting Westwood’s own belief in the validity of different ways of thinking and her consistent rejection of orthodoxy. Connected with her love of Do it Yourself, Westwood often used materials in unexpected contexts or settings, reflecting the ingenuity of human creation around the world, and the different cultural capital given to, for instance, objects of mass western consumption in other societies.
“The only place to find ideas is by looking at what people did in the past. It’s the way you can be original. You can’t be original by just wanting to do something. Nothing comes from a vacuum. It is impossible to be creative unless you have a link with the past and tradition. You cannot merely have a desire to create something and attempt to do it without learning from the techniques of the past” – Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood作品的特點之一是充滿好奇心—她對知識保持赤子般的渴求,不斷質疑、探索多元的方法。她研究不同時代和世界各地的其他文化,探究各種信仰體系、美學傳統和文化基因,最終鎔鑄成獨樹一幟的審美範式。過去十餘年間,Vivienne Westwood與聯合國國際貿易中心倫理時尚項目深度合作,攜手肯雅和布基納法索的匠人一起開發配飾系列,以當地設計語言激活傳統土著手工藝的永恆價值並發揚光大。
這個空間以探索精神為主題—展現Vivienne Westwood的作品如何與多元文化、哲學思想和創作方法論對話,反映Vivienne Westwood「思維無界」的核心理念與對固有範式的持續突破。Vivienne Westwood熱愛自己動手,常常在意想不到的背景或環境中運用各種日常材料進行創作,彰顯世界各地人們創造的智慧,也揭示不同文化語境賦予物品的獨特價值維度。
「尋找靈感的唯一途徑是回顧人們在過去所做的事情,這是你能夠做到原創的方式。僅僅想做點什麼是無法做到原創的。沒有什麼是憑空而來的,除非你追溯過去、探索傳統,否則不可能有創造力。你不能僅僅有創造的慾望,而不去從過去的技藝中學習就嘗試去做。」— Vivienne Westwood
AUDREY NECKLACE
AUDREY頸鏈
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2001 Collection
2001 春夏
Brass
黃銅
Debuted in Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2001 Exploration collection, this necklace uses the orb motif but applies gilded embellishment, tooled and granulated. Highly sophisticated, the decoration is based on Ancient Greek jewellery, a constant source of inspiration for Westwood, where such complex techniques were in use from around 2000 BCE, alongside details such as the amphora droplets and rosettes forming the chain. Many motifs in Westwood’s jewellery were drawn directly from images in the publication Greek Gold: Jewellery of the Classical World, a catalogue to accompany a 1994 exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The Audrey style features the house's signature orb motif, recalling Vivienne's vision of taking tradition into the future. The design of this piece emulates the look of antique jewellery particularly from Ancient Greece, which Vivienne was passionate about.
這條頸鏈首次亮相於Vivienne Westwood 2001春夏系列「探索」,在延續品牌標誌性的星球徽標圖案基礎上,以鎏金工藝輔以雕刻與顆粒飾面,呈現精緻繁複的視覺質感。整體設計靈感源於古希臘珠寶藝術—這一直是Vivienne Westwood創作中的重要靈感源泉。早在公元前2000年,古希臘匠人便已掌握這些複雜技藝,其中包括頸鏈上可見的雙耳瓶水滴吊飾與玫瑰結鏈環等典型細節。Vivienne Westwood的諸多珠寶圖案亦直接取材自圖錄《希臘黃金:古典世界的珠寶》(Greek Gold: Jewellery of the Classical World)一書,該書為1994年紐約大都會藝術博物館(The Metropolitan Museum of Art)舉辦同名展覽的配套出版物。
「Audrey」款式採用品牌標誌性的星球徽标 圖騰,呼應 Vivienne 將傳統帶向未來的設計理念。此作品的設計模仿古董珠寶的風格,尤其受到古希臘時期珠寶的啟發,而這亦是 Vivienne 一直深感興趣的領域。
PERSEPHONE WIG
頭飾
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 Collection
AK-VW時裝——2020春夏
Brass / Crystals / Cord Found / Broken Jewellery Pieces
回收珠寶、玻璃、樹脂、木材、黃銅、布料
Drawing inspiration from personal travels, this extraordinary wig is inspired by observing street-traders who sell inexpensive jewellery and trinkets on beaches in India. Their wares are often attached to their head with cords, to leave their hands free. This lo-fi look is here translated into a theatrical headpiece named after Persephone, the goddess of Greek myth, the daughter of Zeus and wife of Hades, queen of the underworld. The silhouette of the wig is reminiscent of the profile of the goddess as seen in ancient statuary.
The Persephone Wig takes inspiration from jewellery merchants in India, who would have too many goods to carry, and so would tie some of the jewellery pieces to their own heads - creating a wig-like look. This piece appeared in the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 collection, featuring elements of brass, crystals and broken jewellery pieces.
靈感源自個人遊歷,這款非凡的頭飾靈感擷取於印度海灘上售賣廉宜手工飾品與裝飾品的街頭商販。他們常以繩索將飾品懸掛於頭頂來,騰容雙手。Westwood 將這份樸素而富有即興之美的街頭景象,轉化為充滿戲劇張力的頭飾,並以希臘神話中冥界女王—宙斯之女、哈迪斯之妻 Persephone 之名命名。頭飾輪廓呼應古典雕塑中女神的典雅側影,散發靜謐而神秘的氣息。
「Persephone Wig(假髮)」靈感源自印度的珠寶商,他們因攜帶過多商品,會將部分珠寶綁在頭上,形成類似假髮的造型。 此作品出現於 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 2020 春夏系列,融合黃銅、水晶及破碎珠寶等元素。
RENATTA EARRINGS
RENATTA耳環
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Spring-Summer 2016 Collection
Gold Label 金標2016春夏
Brass / Plated Resin / Nylon Cord
樹脂、布料、氧化黃銅、鍍金黃銅
These earrings propose contradictory ideas of worth in a single item: the main body of the items, constructed from glistening brass-plated resin, resemble globules of gold, but they are strung together with utilitarian nylon cord in lurid pink. Nevertheless, the form and even structure of the earrings themselves resemble the triple-drop girandole-style earrings popular in 18th century Europe, and often referenced by Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler.
The Renatta style is influenced by British Paganism, featuring elements of cords and metal-like pebbles, reminiscent of tying objects to vans. The style appeared in the Gold Label Spring-Summer 2016 'Exploration' collection.
這款耳環在單一物件中存在相互矛盾的價值觀念:物件的主體由閃閃發光的鍍黃銅樹脂製成,好像金色的小球,但串接用的是粉紅色實用尼龍繩。然而,耳環本身的形狀甚至結構與18世紀歐洲流行的三水晶裝飾燭台式風格耳環都很相似,常被Vivienne Westwood和Andreas Kronthaler借鑒。
「Renatta」款式受英國異教文化(British Paganism)影響,設計融合繩索與金屬質感卵石般的元素,令人聯想到將物件綁於貨車上的隨性綑綁方式。 此款式出現於 Gold Label 2016 春夏「Exploration」系列。
MARIOLA NECKLACE
MARIOLA頸鏈
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 Collection
AK-VW時裝——2020春夏
Brass / Crab Pincers / Gemstones / Coins
各種寶石、蟹鉗、貝殼、玻璃、氧化黃銅、金、釕及氧化鍍銀黃銅
What constitutes decoration, preciousness, even a gem? Playing off the tradition of coral jewellery – dating back at least to ancient Rome, where it was believed to protect children and ward against evil – this necklace proposes an array of subterranean objects, including shells and crab pincers, alongside oxidised metal and glass coins. The whole resembles treasure recovered from a sunken galleon - another interpretation of the notion of exploration.
This piece assembles elements of shells, inspired by pieces found at the beach, complete with masculine, hardware inspired details. The style appeared in the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 collection, titled 'Rock Me Amadeus' - complete with an oversized tag with the house's signature branding.
何以為珍?這條頸鏈延續了珊瑚珠寶的古老傳統—至少可以追溯到古羅馬,當時人們相信珊瑚是可以護佑孩童、辟邪鎮災的祥瑞之物。設計師別出心裁地將貝殼、蟹鉗等深海奇珍,與氧化金屬和玻璃錢幣相映成趣,整體猶如從沉船秘寶中打撈起的時光膠囊,以當代珠寶藝術重新演繹「探索」的永恆主題。
此作品將貝殼元素加以組合,靈感源自海灘上發現的自然物件,並融入帶有陽剛氣息、受五金零件啟發的細節設計。此款式出現於 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood 2020 春夏系列「Rock Me Amadeus」,並搭配一枚印有品牌標誌的超大吊牌。