Vivienne Westwood APAC
ORIGINS
起源
From her very earliest creative endeavours, Vivienne Westwood’s work proved unmistakable. Beginning her career as a fashion designer in the 1970s and helping to shape the punk movement, her creations were marked out by distinct and preternaturally well-developed design hallmarks from the outset. There was never any other designer like Westwood.
Westwood’s abiding signature was an outright and constant rejection of the orthodox – she seized upon unexpected ideas to produce work that was wildly original, and evolved her own entirely unique aesthetic language. Jewellery is a fundamental component of that – for Westwood, part of a ‘total look’ that expressed her ideal of beauty, one that shifted and changed restlessly over time.
Throughout her career, Westwood would return constantly to specific ideas and approaches, exploring obsessions that had shaped her since childhood. Here we see the origins of Westwood’s style expressed both through early examples of her work, and emblematic jewellery pieces that typify the Westwood look. Sex is omnipresent - referencing the libertine mores of Ancient cultures, mid-20th century ‘Pin-Ups’ and the padlocks and buckled cuffs of BDSM subcultures. Her activism is writ large – literally, in terms of political slogans but also more fundamentally in her use of recycled forms and materials, demonstrating her deep commitment to ecological concerns. And there are references to specific Westwood collections past – activist slogans, gilded cherubs, punk-inspired razors and chains, and bones echoing the skull and crossbones motif of her shop Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die (1972–74) and also emblematic of pirates, nodding to her first catwalk show of 1981.
Those pieces also communicate her philosophy of creation and her activist beliefs, sitting at the heart of Vivienne Westwood today.
從最初的創作開始,Vivienne Westwood 的作品就已鮮明而不可複製。她於20世紀70年代踏入時裝界,並成為龐克運動的催化劑之一。一出手便鋒芒畢露,風格強烈且極具成熟度,稱得上是前無古人。
Vivienne Westwood 始終拒絕墨守成規—她總能從意想不到的念頭中汲取靈感,創造出大膽而具原創性的作品,逐步建立起獨一無二的美學語言。珠寶,在她的美學體系中是不可或缺的一部分。對 Vivienne Westwood 而言,它不僅是造型的一環,更是表達「完整造型理念」的關鍵,而這種理念,亦始終隨着時代流轉而不斷演化。
縱觀其職業生涯,Vivienne Westwood 始終圍繞一組核心理念反覆探尋—那些自孩提時代便植根於心的癡迷,構建了她創作的核心。在這裏,我們既能從她早期的作品中,也能從具代表性的珠寶設計裏,窺見其風格的源起。性是她作品中的常駐主題—從古代文化的不羈觀念、20世紀中葉的「海報女郎」,到 BDSM次文化中的掛鎖與金屬扣帶,皆被她巧妙轉譯為視覺符號。她的行動主義從未加以掩飾—無論是印在衣物上的政治口號,還是更深層地體現在可回收材質與循環設計中的環保理念。此外,她亦頻頻回望過往系列,從行動口號、鍍金天使、龐克剃刀和鏈飾,到象徵「Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die(1972~1974)」門店風格的骷髏頭圖騰(亦是海盜的象徵),這些意象也貫穿於她在1981年的首場時裝秀之中。
這些作品同樣體現了她的創作哲學與行動主義信念,構成了今日 Vivienne Westwood 品牌的精神核心。
GIANT ANGLOMANIA NECKLACE
Anglomania 頸鏈
Andreas for Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2023/24
AK-VW 時裝 — 2023/2024秋冬
Oxidised Brass
氧化黃銅
A means of transporting keepsakes and good luck amulets with you, the charm bracelet became fashionable amongst 19th century European nobility thanks to Queen Victoria’s enthusiasm for the device – an idea that would doubtless appeal to Vivienne Westwood. This piece magnifies a charm bracelet to become a necklace, hung with Westwood icons and emblems. Those include dressmaking scissors, a corset, a gilded rococo frame and dancing satyr, and a fig leaf, which was famously appliquéd onto flesh-coloured tights for the Autumn/Winter 1989 collection Voyage to Cythera.
The Anglomania necklace was first seen in the 'Anglomania' collection from Autumn-Winter 1993/94, which looked to encompass Vivienne's whole fashion career, from 1970 onwards. The piece is made from recycled brass, complete with classic charms, synonymous with the house's rich iconography. Elements of fantasy, rebellion, romance and glamour echo the ethos of the collection.
無論是用來承載回憶的小物件,還是象徵好運的護身符,吊飾手鏈因維多利亞女皇的鍾愛在19世紀的歐洲貴族圈中風靡—這種將私人記憶與象徵意義濃縮於一身的理念,無疑亦深得 Vivienne Westwood 的青睞。這件作品將吊飾手鏈放大為頸鏈,懸掛着 Vivienne Westwood 標誌性的元素及符號,包括裁縫剪刀、一件緊身胸衣、一個鎏金洛可可畫框、跳舞的薩堤爾以及一片無花果葉—該無花果葉曾被應用在她1989年秋冬系列「Voyage to Cythera」中,以貼飾形式點綴於肉色緊身褲之上,成為品牌經典造型之一。
Anglomania 頸鏈最早於 1993/94 秋冬「Anglomania」系列中亮相。該系列旨在涵蓋 Vivienne 自 1970 年以來整個時尚生涯的精髓。此作品以氧化黃銅製成,搭配經典吊飾,體現品牌標誌性且豐富的視覺語彙。奇幻、叛逆、浪漫與華麗等元素,呼應了該系列的核心精神。
BROKEN PEARL NECKLACE
破裂感珍珠頸鏈
Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 1996/97 Collection
Gold Label 金標 1996/1997秋冬
Brass / Glass Based Pearl / Crystal
鍍金黃銅、玻璃珍珠、水晶
For the Autumn/Winter 1996 collection Storm in a Teacup, tropes were twisted that could already be recognised as “classic Westwood”, in a show inspired by the idea of outfits blown by the wind. Alongside spiralling evening gowns and asymmetric tartan suits, Westwood’s pearl necklace was reconsidered – Andreas Kronthaler proposed they create necklaces that appear to have been clawed at and broken, random pearls subsequently lost. The design references ideas of distress introduced in punk creations in the 1970s, and which Vivienne often used in subsequent collections - although it is refined, the “missing” pearls replaced with bands of gold.
Pearls are an essential element of the house’s iconography, evoking a sense of grandeur and luxury. The Broken Pearl necklace was first introduced in the 'Storm in a Teacup' collection from Autumn-Winter 1996/97, inspired by the decorative schemes of Rococo art. This piece features glass pearls, with Vivienne's signature 'Broken' elements, designed for women who were 'facing up to the horror of uniformity and minimalism'.
在1996年秋冬系列「Storm in a Teacup」中,設計團隊以「衣裝被風吹起」為靈感,重構了那些已被視為 Vivienne Westwood 的經典設計符號。除了螺旋線條的裝晚禮服和不對稱格紋西裝外,珍珠頸鏈亦被重新演繹— Andreas Kronthaler 提議他們創作彷彿被抓扯破碎、部分珍珠散落的頸鏈。這個設計呼應了她在70年代龐克創作時期引入的「破壞美學」,並在其後多個系列中不斷延續—雖然精緻,但那些「缺失」的珍珠被金屬鏈節所替代。
珍珠是品牌標誌性元素中不可或缺的一部分,喚起一種華麗與奢華的感覺。破裂感珍珠頸鏈最初於 1996/97 秋冬《Storm in a Teacup》系列中推出,靈感來自洛可可藝術的裝飾風格。此作品採用玻璃珍珠,並融入 Vivienne 標誌性的 "Broken"元素,為那些「勇於面對一致性與極簡主義之可怕之處」的女性而設計。
GIANT TEDDY BEAR NECKLACE
泰迪熊頸鏈
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2019 Collection
2018/2019秋冬
Brass / Crystal
樹脂、鍍金黃銅
The teddy bear motif first appeared in Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 1988 collection Britain Must Go Pagan, as a print across the front of a satin corset. This necklace similarly transforms a child’s toy into a sophisticated adult design, using the bear motif as the base for a crystal pavé pendant with thick chain.
The crystal-embellished Giant Teddy Bear necklace was created for the Spring-Summer 2019 collection 'OK...It's Showtime' - which featured oversized jewellery pieces. The Teddy motif is now a signature style of the house, having appeared in many ready-to-wear styles throughout the seasons. Vivienne’s love for the teddy extends beyond her collections. She once took part in an auction for which she designed an eco-warrior Build-a-Bear - that wore a Climate Revolution t-shirt and helmet, to raise money for the South African charity Operation Bobbi Bear.
泰迪熊圖案首次出現在 Vivienne Westwood 1988年春夏系列「Britain Must Go Pagan」,作為緞面緊身胸衣正面的印花圖樣。這款頸鏈同樣將兒童玩具轉化為成人世界中的精緻設計,以泰迪熊圖案為基礎,打造了一款密鑲水晶的吊墜粗鏈條。
鑲嵌水晶的泰迪熊頸鏈誕生於 2019 春夏系列「OK...It’s Showtime」,該系列以誇張放大的珠寶設計為特色。泰迪熊圖案如今已成為品牌的標誌性元素之一,並在歷季多款成衣設計中反覆出現。 Vivienne 對泰迪熊的喜愛不僅體現在她的系列之中。她曾參與一場拍賣活動,為此設計了一隻環保戰士版的 Build-a-Bear—身穿氣候革命T 恤與頭盔,為南非慈善機構 Operation Bobbi Bear 籌款。
HARDCORE EARRINGS
硬核耳環
Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2005/6 Collection
Gold Label 金標 2005/2006秋冬
White Gold / Diamonds / Black Spinel
白金、鑽石、尖晶石
An important component running throughout Vivienne Westwood’s work is the idea of bricolage, constructing new pieces from existing objects, thus changing their function and status. Allied to the Dadaist art movement and Marcel Duchamp’s “readymade” sculptures, these earrings elevate the simple paperclip, executing it in white gold, diamond and black spinel and using them as the base for chandelier-style earrings. Part of this process is rediscovering the beauty of form found in common objects – celebrating the ordinary.
The 'Hardcore' earrings were first designed as a mock-up exercise for Vivienne, who would often wear paperclips herself. The inspiration derives from the Hardcore diamonds collection from Autumn-Winter 2005/06, offered in White, Gold and Black spinel and diamond details at the time. The design was later reintroduced in the Autumn-Winter 2005/06 collection 'Propaganda.' The design featured paperclip elements, conforming to Vivienne's signature DIY approach. The 'Propaganda' collection marked a reset of both Vivienne Westwood's aesthetics and intentions. Her work would from now on be overtly and explicitly shaped by her political, social and environmental concerns.
Vivienne Westwood 的作品中始終貫穿「拼貼式創作」(Bricolage)理念:以現有物件重組、賦新,改寫其功能與意義。她的靈感與達達主義藝術運動和馬塞爾·杜象(Marcel Duchamp)的「現成品」雕塑一脈相承。這款耳環便是以日常的萬字夾(迴紋針)為靈感,採用白金、鑽石和黑色尖晶石重新演繹,打造出吊燈式設計。在這一過程中,她重新發現了日常物件的形式美感,並藉此致敬平凡之物。
硬核耳環最初是 Vivienne 的一項模型設計練習,她本人也經常佩戴迴紋針作為飾品。其靈感源自 2005/06 秋冬「硬核」(Hardcore) 鑽石系列,當時提供白色、金色與黑色尖晶石及鑽石細節的款式。此設計後來亦於 2005/06 秋冬系列「Propaganda(宣言)」中重新推出。
該設計融入了迴紋針元素,體現 Vivienne 標誌性的 DIY 手作精神。「Propaganda(宣言)」系列標誌著 Vivienne Westwood 在美學與理念上的一次重啟;自此之後,她的創作更直接且明確地受到其政治、社會與環境關懷的影響。
ORIGINAL ORB
經典星球徽標
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Autumn-Winter 1987/88 Collection
Gold Label 金標 1988/1989秋冬
Brass / Crystal / Cz Ball
氧化黃銅、有機玻璃球、水晶
The Vivienne Westwood orb made its first appearance in the Spring/Summer 1986 Mini Crini show. Inspired by the notion of colliding past and future – a respect for history, but an urge to push it forwards – the royal orb itself echoes an emblem used by the Harris Tweed authority, whose fabric Westwood would often use. The orbital ring, inspired by the rings of Saturn, represents the idea of future, and taking tradition into the future.
The Original Orb piece features the house's signature orb motif, combining a Saturn ring and traditional cross, synonymous with Vivienne's vision of taking tradition into the future. Having appeared in the Autumn-Winter 1987/88 'Harris Tweed' collection, this piece is offered in brass, complete with details crystal-embellished elements and cubic zirconia.
Vivienne Westwood 的星球徽標設計首次出現在1986年春夏系列「Mini Crini」時裝騷上,靈感源於「歷史與未來的碰撞」:既尊重歷史,又敦促不斷推動傳統向前發展。徽標主體設計借鑒了布料管理機構 Harris Tweed 的徽章圖案,Vivienne Westwood經常用到該機構出品的布料常出現在 Vivienne Westwood 的設計中。環繞徽章的星環則啟發取自土星環,象徵將傳統帶入未來的理念。
經典星球徽標作品採用品牌標誌性的星球徽標圖案,將土星環與傳統十字結合,象徵 Vivienne 希望將傳統帶向未來的設計理念。此設計最早出現於 1987/88 秋冬「Harris Tweed」系列,並以黃銅材質呈現,配以水晶鑲嵌細節及立方氧化鋯元素。
HORN TIARA
角形頭飾
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Autumn-Winter 2004/05 Collection
Gold Label 金標 2004/2005秋冬
Brass / Crystal
鍍銠黃銅、水晶
Inspired by the Greek mythological figure of the satyr – known for its wild freedom – Vivienne Westwood first used horns as an accessory in the Spring/Summer 1988 show, Britain Must Go Pagan. Originally in clear resin attached to a leather band, they made appearances over several of Westwood’s late 1980s collections. In 2004, for the Exhibition collection – inspired in part by her own retrospective at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London – Westwood reworked this design, newly refined in brass with pavé crystal. Playful and mischievous, they are a style she often wore herself. Andreas Kronthaler stated that these horns are his favourite piece of Vivienne Westwood jewellery.
The horn motif appears as a classic element of satyr (in Greek mythology, a satyr is one of a class of lustful, woodland gods. In Greek art they were represented as a man with a horse's ears and tail) drawing from Vivienne's fascination with Greek Pagan history. The design was originally offered in Perspex and lights in the ‘Civilizade’ collection from Spring-Summer 1989. The Horn Tiara featured in the Gold Label collection, titled 'Exhibition' from Autumn-Winter 2004/05 - which repurposed classic motifs from the house's rich archive. The piece comes in brass, complete with crystal-embellished details.
受希臘神話中以野性與自由而聞名的薩堤爾形象啟發,Vivienne Westwood 於1988年春夏系列「Britain Must Go Pagan」中首次將角形頭飾融入珠寶設計。最初以透明樹脂材質搭配皮革頭帶呈現,該設計在她80年代後期的多個系列中反覆出現。2004年,在「Exhibition」系列中對這一設計進行了全新演繹——靈感來自她在倫敦 V&A 博物館舉辦的部份回顧展,以黃銅和密鑲水晶煥發新的光彩,充滿俏皮且與淘氣的設計風格,也是 Vivienne Westwood 本人經常佩戴的珠寶之一。Andreas Kronthaler 表示,這角形頭飾是他最喜歡的 Vivienne Westwood 珠寶設計作品。
角飾圖案作為薩堤爾的經典象徵元素出現(在希臘神話中,薩提爾是一類充滿慾望、棲居森林的神祇;在希臘藝術中,他們常被描繪為具有人形、但帶有馬耳與馬尾的形象), 此設計反映 Vivienne 對希臘歷史的迷戀。 該設計最初於 1989 春夏「Civilizade」系列中以有機玻璃與燈光元素呈現。 角形頭飾則曾出現在 2004/05 秋冬 Gold Label 系列「Exhibition」之中,該系列重新詮釋品牌豐富檔案中的經典圖騰。此作品以黃銅製成,並配以水晶鑲嵌細節。