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Vivienne Westwood APAC

Corset Exhibition

MISCELLANY
異質共生

An overarching character trait of Vivienne Westwood was a steadfast refusal to be characterised. She refuted any and all attempts to pigeonhole her intellect, her aesthetic or design approach, and her creations are filled with contradictions and paradoxes, expressions of her deep belief in the philosopher Bertrand Russell’s declaration that ‘orthodoxy is the grave of intelligence’. A miscellany – borrowed from the Latin miscellus, meaning mixed – is therefore possibly the best representation of Westwood’s approach to creative expression. Its reflection is found within every one of her collections, where a multitude of ideas, many running counter to the other, were given free rein.

Often, jewellery was an element that permitted Westwood to toy with archetypes and explode our preconceptions, mixing together different approaches and ideas – the single constituent to twist the conventional into something extraordinary. Delicate chains of gold or diamanté were used as bondage harnesses, a punk safety-pin pierced the cheek of a primly-dressed lady, a classic pearl necklace was worn by a man. Her creative and life partner Andreas Kronthaler, now the creative director of the Vivienne Westwood labels, also uses jewellery as a means of confounding expectations, with bold and industrial pieces chosen to deliberately jar with delicate clothes, and vice versa.

This space presents a collection of uncategorisable Westwood ideas, many emblematic of significant themes or motifs explored through her career, others one-offs that nevertheless prove milestones. They are united by their rejection of uniformity, their uniqueness in the canon of her designs. In their resolute repudiation of conformity, they are quintessentially Vivienne Westwood.

Vivienne Westwood身上最鮮明的特質之一,是始終拒絕被定義。她從不接受外界對其思想、審美或設計方式的分類或歸納。她的創作充滿了矛盾與悖論,正是對哲學家Bertrand Russell那句名言「正統是智慧的墳墓」的深刻回應。「Miscellany」一詞,源自拉丁語 「Miscellus」,意為「多元、雜錦」,或許正是對Vivienne Westwood創造理念的最貼切註解。她的每一個設計系列中,都可以看到多元觀點自由交匯,甚至彼此衝突—但她從不設限,也從不試圖調和,它們正是她創作張力的來源。

在Vivienne Westwood的設計宇宙中,珠寶從來不是點綴,而是顛覆陳規的裝置,打破先入為主的觀念,將不同的方法和創意糅合在一起形成與眾不同的東西。精緻的金鏈或鑽石鏈被用作束帶,龐克安全別針[SH13.1]刺穿淑女套裝的面紗,傳世的珍珠頸鏈懸掛在男士的頸間—這些可以製造的「錯位」正是她對審美定式的暴力解構。她的創作與人生伴侶Andreas Kronthaler, 亦是現任Vivienne Westwood品牌的創意總監,延續了這一哲學,他用工業感粗礪珠寶撞擊薄紗禮服,或以巴洛克耳環配襯機車外套。這種精密計算的違和美學,讓每件首飾都成為重新定義性別、階級與時代符碼的宣言。

此處展示了一系列無法歸類的Vivienne Westwood的創意作品,其中既有許多象徵着她職業生涯中探索的核心主題或圖案,也有看似曇花一現卻成為里程碑的驚鴻之作。這些作品因無法統一門類而歸於一處[H14.1],在品牌設計譜系中構築起獨一無二的異質星辰。堅決反對循規蹈矩,正是Vivienne Westwood精神本體的終極顯影。

NEW YORK EARRINGS
紐約耳環

ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING-SUMMER 2018 COLLECTION
AK-VW時裝—2017/2018秋冬

Brass / Wood
木材、氧化黃銅

ARMOUR RING
鎧裝戒指

Autumn-Winter 1988-89
1988/1989秋冬

Sterling Silver
鍍金銀

ZELDA GIANT NECKLACE
ZELDA GIANT 頸鏈

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING-SUMMER 2021 COLLECTION
AK-VW時裝—2021春夏

Brass Plated Resin
氧化黃銅、立方氧化鋯

MARITZA NECKLACE
MARITZA 頸鏈

Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2023/24 Collection
AK-VW時裝—2023/2024秋冬

Brass / Mirror-Glass
鍍金黃銅、鏡片、布料

MEMONA NECKRING
MEMONA頸環

Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2024 Collection
AK-VW時裝—2024春夏

Brass / Cubic Zirconia
氧化鍍銀黃銅、立方氧化鋯