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Vivienne Westwood APAC

Parures - Jewellery Exhibition

PARURE
PARURE 配饰

The French word parure literally translates as adornment or ornament – but since the court of Louis XIV the term has denoted a co-ordinating suite of several jewellery pieces, highly finished and designed to be worn together. Vivienne Westwood was passionate about the 18th century, which she considered a high point of culture, and her work from the late 1980s onwards contained multiple allusions to the art, literature and philosophy of this period, known as the Age of Enlightenment.

Westwood’s use of the parure is a direct reflection of her love of that era, utilising the 18th century’s distinctive shapes and decorative forms, such as ribbon bows, hearts, flowers and droplets. However, rather than precisely reproducing historical pieces, she toyed with the language of these archetypal jewellery tropes. Scale is often overblown, challenging our preconceptions of archival jewellery by giving delicate pieces new impact through a bold reconsideration of proportion. Alongside painstakingly-worked precious metals, Westwood also often proposed them in unusual and rustic materials, colours and shapes – crystal and precious metals could easily be replaced with clay, plastic, wood or even papier-mâché, in another example of Westwood’s constant questioning of value systems, and refusal to conform.

Westwood’s designs are never static – they are always devised in dynamic rapport with the body, emphasising its movement, celebrating life. In the parures, the ‘drop’ earrings typical of the 18th century appear again and again. Here these jewels are used as a means of framing the face, underscoring conversation and attracting attention, always, to an individual’s intelligence.

法文單字「parure」字面上的意思是裝飾或點綴,但自路易十四時期開始,這個字詞便代表了一整套由多件精心製作、可配搭佩戴的飾物套裝。Vivienne Westwood 對18世紀充滿熱情,她認為當時文化正處於巔峰。從1980年代末開始,她便在設計作品中多次引用該時期的藝術、文學和哲學,並稱之為「啟蒙時代」。

Vivienne Westwood 採用「parure」一字,直接反映了她對那個時代的熱愛。她在設計中運用了18世紀獨特的圖形與裝飾形式,例如絲帶蝴蝶結、心形、花朵和水滴等。然而,她並沒有完全複製歷史作品,而是從這些原型飾物中汲取文化元素。她經常放大尺寸,大膽地重新定義比例,為精緻的飾物賦予新的視覺衝擊,顛覆了我們對傳統典藏飾物先入為主的觀念。除了精心雕琢的珍寶外,Vivienne Westwood 還經常以大家熟悉的普通物料、顏色和形狀來展現設計——她使用黏土、塑膠、木材甚至紙糊(Papier-mâché)來替代稀有的水晶和貴金屬,這亦反映了 Vivienne Westwood 不斷質疑既有價值體系、拒絕隨波逐流。

Vivienne Westwood 的設計從來都不是靜態的——它們總是與穿戴者建立動態且和諧的連結,強調主體的動感,並讚頌生命。在她的飾物設計中,18世紀經典的「水滴形水晶吊墜」耳環一次又一次地出現。在這裡,飾物被用作修飾面部輪廓、強調交流對話,以及吸引人們關注個人內在思想的一種手段。

PAPIER MACHÉ TIARA
紙糊冕飾

Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2000/01 Collection
Gold Label 金標—2000/2001秋冬

Paper / Brass Chain
氧化鍍銀黃銅、鍍釕黃銅、紙糊、布料

AZAELA NECKLACE
AZAELA頸鏈

Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 18 Collection
AK-VW時裝—2018春夏

Brass / Printed Stickers
鍍金黃銅、氧化鍍銀黃銅、貼紙

BAGATELLE LONG EARRINGS
BAGATELLE耳環

Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 1997 Collection
Gold Label 金標—1997春夏

Brass / Cubic Zirconia
氧化鍍銀黃銅、立方氧化鋯

CHERRY
CHERRY胸針

Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2011 Collection
Gold Label 金標—2001春夏

Brass / Cans
紙糊、氧化黃銅

GAINSBOROUGH EARRINGS
GAINSBOROUGH耳環

Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2013 Collection
Gold Label 金標 2013春夏

Palladium
氧化鍍銀黃銅