Vivienne Westwood APAC
PARURE
PARURE 配饰
The French word parure literally translates as adornment or ornament – but since the court of Louis XIV the term has denoted a co-ordinating suite of several jewellery pieces, highly finished and designed to be worn together. Vivienne Westwood was passionate about the 18th century, which she considered a high point of culture, and her work from the late 1980s onwards contained multiple allusions to the art, literature and philosophy of this period, known as the Age of Enlightenment.
Westwood’s use of the parure is a direct reflection of her love of that era, utilising the 18th century’s distinctive shapes and decorative forms, such as ribbon bows, hearts, flowers and droplets. However, rather than precisely reproducing historical pieces, she toyed with the language of these archetypal jewellery tropes. Scale is often overblown, challenging our preconceptions of archival jewellery by giving delicate pieces new impact through a bold reconsideration of proportion. Alongside painstakingly-worked precious metals, Westwood also often proposed them in unusual and rustic materials, colours and shapes – crystal and precious metals could easily be replaced with clay, plastic, wood or even papier-mâché, in another example of Westwood’s constant questioning of value systems, and refusal to conform.
Westwood’s designs are never static – they are always devised in dynamic rapport with the body, emphasising its movement, celebrating life. In the parures, the ‘drop’ earrings typical of the 18th century appear again and again. Here these jewels are used as a means of framing the face, underscoring conversation and attracting attention, always, to an individual’s intelligence.
法文單字「parure」字面上的意思是裝飾或點綴,但自路易十四時期開始,這個字詞便代表了一整套由多件精心製作、可配搭佩戴的飾物套裝。Vivienne Westwood 對18世紀充滿熱情,她認為當時文化正處於巔峰。從1980年代末開始,她便在設計作品中多次引用該時期的藝術、文學和哲學,並稱之為「啟蒙時代」。
Vivienne Westwood 採用「parure」一字,直接反映了她對那個時代的熱愛。她在設計中運用了18世紀獨特的圖形與裝飾形式,例如絲帶蝴蝶結、心形、花朵和水滴等。然而,她並沒有完全複製歷史作品,而是從這些原型飾物中汲取文化元素。她經常放大尺寸,大膽地重新定義比例,為精緻的飾物賦予新的視覺衝擊,顛覆了我們對傳統典藏飾物先入為主的觀念。除了精心雕琢的珍寶外,Vivienne Westwood 還經常以大家熟悉的普通物料、顏色和形狀來展現設計——她使用黏土、塑膠、木材甚至紙糊(Papier-mâché)來替代稀有的水晶和貴金屬,這亦反映了 Vivienne Westwood 不斷質疑既有價值體系、拒絕隨波逐流。
Vivienne Westwood 的設計從來都不是靜態的——它們總是與穿戴者建立動態且和諧的連結,強調主體的動感,並讚頌生命。在她的飾物設計中,18世紀經典的「水滴形水晶吊墜」耳環一次又一次地出現。在這裡,飾物被用作修飾面部輪廓、強調交流對話,以及吸引人們關注個人內在思想的一種手段。
PAPIER MACHÉ TIARA
紙糊冕飾
Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2000/01 Collection
Gold Label 金標—2000/2001秋冬
Paper / Brass Chain
氧化鍍銀黃銅、鍍釕黃銅、紙糊、布料
The symbol of the crown, diadem or tiara is loaded to become an ultimate emblem of preciousness and status. Here, with typical perversion, Vivienne Westwood inverts that idea, executing the crown in brass and papier-mâché, connecting it with the playful and inexpensive paper crowns worn at festive gatherings. The precious gems and fittings of a prototypical tiara are drawn onto this example, as if in a celebration of the process of design itself.
The Paper Mache Tiara follows a classic Parure design, popular during the Victorian era - and often used as a decorative piece or for fancy dress. This piece appeared in the Autumn-Winter 2000/01 collection, offered in paper Mache. Vivienne would often wear Tiaras herself - notably at a ball hosted by Elizabeth Taylor in London. For Vivienne, it was never a matter of wearing expensive materials to look great. The point, for her, was not to look richer or more important, but to express one's individuality.
加持冕冠、帶冠或冕飾的象徵意義—這是高貴地位的終極象徵。在這裡,Vivienne Westwood以典型的變體方式顛覆了這一觀念,用黃銅和紙糊製作冕冠,讓人聯想到節日聚會上所佩戴的輕鬆、平價的紙冠。在這個例子中,同樣繪製了原型冕飾的珍貴寶石和裝飾,彷彿在讚美它的設計過程。
紙糊冕飾遵循經典的配飾設計風格,這種風格在維多利亞時期相當流行,常被用作裝飾性配飾或變裝舞會飾品。此作品於 2000/01 秋冬系列中亮相,以紙漿材質製作呈現。
Vivienne 本人也經常佩戴王冠,尤其是在倫敦由 Elizabeth Taylor 舉辦的一場舞會上。對 Vivienne 而言,穿戴昂貴材質從來不是為了讓自己看起來更華麗或更重要,而是為了表達個人的獨特性。
AZAELA NECKLACE
AZAELA頸鏈
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 18 Collection
AK-VW時裝—2018春夏
Brass / Printed Stickers
鍍金黃銅、氧化鍍銀黃銅、貼紙
Vivienne Westwood once stated that the patrons of the 16th century artist Titian would have seen his nudes “with Playboy eyes,” and she had a fascination with the eroticism often hidden in historical art and period costume. The collage of imagery in this parure nods to that provocative idea, a photographic print of lascivious lips and tongue positioned on a necklace to nestle in the cleavage. The lips belong to a favourite Westwood model, Sara Stockbridge, from an image taken of Vivienne Westwood’s Autumn/Winter 1987 collection Harris Tweed by photographer Declan Ryan. The roses are drawn from the work of botanist and painter Pierre Joseph Redouté, whose floral imagery often inspired Westwood prints.
The Azelia style follows a classic Parure design, popular during the Victorian era - and often used as a decorative piece or for fancy dress. This piece appeared in the Spring-Summer 2018 collection, offered in brass, complete with printed stickers. The design features floral and pear-drop motifs, alongside an image of Sara Stockbridge's lips. Hardware-inspired elements are also offered through the brass claps, following Vivienne's signature Punk style. The design follows the tradition of assembling pieces together.
Vivienne Westwood曾評價,16世紀藝術家提香的贊助人在欣賞畫作時帶有「文藝復興時期特有的審美視角」,而Vivienne Westwood本人亦對歷史藝術和時代服裝中隱藏的張力始終抱有濃厚興趣。這條頸鏈中的圖像拼貼正呼應這種挑逗性的藝術意念—頸鏈上鑲嵌了照片打印的雙唇與若隱若現的舌尖輪廓,嘴唇屬於Vivienne Westwood最喜愛的模特兒Sara Stockbridge。該影像由攝影師Declan Ryan為Vivienne Westwood 1987秋冬系列「Harris Tweed」拍攝,透過戲劇化的視覺語言傳遞品牌標誌性的前衛氣質。頸鏈中的玫瑰元素取材自植物學家Pierre Joseph Redouté的學術圖譜,其優美的花卉意象常常為Vivienne Westwood的印花設計提供靈感。
Azelia」款式延續經典的配飾設計風格,這種風格在維多利亞時期相當流行,常被用作裝飾性配飾或變裝服飾的一部分。此作品於 2018 春夏系列中亮相,以黃銅材質製成,並附有印刷貼紙細節。
設計融合花卉與梨形水滴(pear-drop)圖案,同時加入 Sara Stockbridge 嘴唇的圖像。作品亦透過黃銅扣環呈現工業五金風格元素,延續 Vivienne 標誌性的龐克風格。整體設計遵循將不同元素組合拼接而成的傳統手法。
BAGATELLE LONG EARRINGS
BAGATELLE耳環
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 1997 Collection
Gold Label 金標—1997春夏
Brass / Cubic Zirconia
氧化鍍銀黃銅、立方氧化鋯
In the early 1970s, Vivienne Westwood used chicken-bones as unusual adornment; halfway between garment and jewellery, the chests of a series of cotton t-shirts were affixed with chicken bones spelling out various simple words, such as ROCK, attached with metal chain links. Bones subsequently became an unexpected Westwood device, used here as the structure for precious pavé jewellery combined with classical bijoux motifs such as teardrops and ribbon bows.
The Skeleton motif was first introduced in the early 1980s by Vivienne and Malcolm. Bones were first seen in 1972 'Let it rock' on t-shirts, with chicken bones. This Bagatelle piece is offered in brass, adorned with cubic zirconia details. The design follows a classic Parure style, complete with classic bow motifs - popular during the Victorian era - and often used as a decorative piece or for fancy dress.
20世紀70年代初,Vivienne Westwood使用雞骨製作標新立異的裝飾—在服裝和配飾之間的創新實驗中,一系列棉質T恤都貼上了雞骨,上面寫著各種簡單的字詞,例如「ROCK」,然後以金屬鏈環相連接。隨後這種非常規物料成為品牌的標誌性設計語言,在本系列中更被轉化為珍貴密鑲珠寶的結構基礎,與淚珠和絲帶蝴蝶結等經典珠寶意象巧妙融合。
骷髏圖騰最早由 Vivienne 與 Malcolm 於 1980 年代初期引入設計之中。骨骼元素最初可追溯至 1972 年「Let it rock」系列的 T 恤設計,當時使用的是雞骨圖案。
這款 Bagatelle 作品以黃銅製成,並鑲嵌立方氧化鋯細節。設計延續經典配飾 風格,並加入傳統蝴蝶結圖案—此風格在維多利亞時期相當流行,常被用作裝飾性配飾或變裝服飾的一部分。
CHERRY
CHERRY胸針
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2011 Collection
Gold Label 金標—2001春夏
Brass / Cans
紙糊、氧化黃銅
Vivienne Westwood often challenged traditional ideas of value and preciousness in her works, colliding typical forms with atypical materials to create an unexpected friction between tradition and modernity. Here, shapes and forms taken from traditional jewellery are reinterpreted using Coca-Cola cans, expressive of both Westwood’s deep ecological concerns and her ingenuity in elevating everyday items, challenging the status system of fashion. Ironically, the bright paint hue brings to mind rich rubies.
The Cherry style follows Vivienne's DIY approach to design, where inexpensive or recycled materials would be combined to create something new. This piece features elements of Cola cans and brass, following a classic Parure style, popular during the Victorian era.
Vivienne Westwood在她的作品中常常挑戰「物以稀為貴」的傳統價值觀念,碰撞式結合經典形式與非經典物料,讓傳統和現代之間從而產生磨擦。在這裡,她使用可口可樂罐重新詮釋了傳統珠寶的形狀和形式,表達了Vivienne Westwood對生態的深切關注,以及她在提升日常用品方面的獨創性,向時尚體系的地位發起挑戰。意想不到的是,明亮的油漆色調不禁讓人聯想起華麗的紅寶石。
「Cherry」款式延續 Vivienne 的 DIY 設計理念,將平價或回收材料重新組合,創造出全新的作品。此款設計融合可樂罐與黃銅元素,並採用經典 配飾風格,該風格在維多利亞時期相當流行
GAINSBOROUGH EARRINGS
GAINSBOROUGH耳環
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2013 Collection
Gold Label 金標 2013春夏
Palladium
氧化鍍銀黃銅
A girandole is an earring design especially popular in the 17th and 18th centuries, where a trio of droplets are suspended from a central motif, usually a ribbon bow. Delicate and feminine, the animation of the free-falling drops and sparkling gems draw attention to the face. Although executed in precious palladium and peppered with tiny diamonds and sapphires, in Vivienne Westwood’s interpretation – named Gainsborough, after the English 18th century portrait artist Thomas Gainsborough – the large spaces traditionally intended to frame jewels are left open, suggesting the ghosts of gemstones. The result also resembles fragile lace, or a spider’s web.
The Gainsborough style appeared in the Spring-Summer 2013 'Climate Revolution' collection, offered in Palladium metal. The design is inspired by the nobles escaping the French revolution, who carried diamonds with them - leaving only the frame mounts behind, as they were less valuable.
裝飾燭台式耳環設計盛行於17至18世紀,當中有三連珠串從通常是絲帶蝴蝶結的中央的樣式垂吊而下。自由滴落的水晶和閃閃發光的寶石形成精緻而柔美的動態畫面,吸引了人們對注視臉部。儘管採用了珍貴的鈀金屬物料,並點綴著細小的鑽石和藍寶石,但在Vivienne Westwood的詮釋中—以18世紀英國肖像藝術家Thomas Gainsborough的名字命名為Gainsborough—傳統上用於鑲嵌珠寶的巨大空間是開放的,暗示著寶石有靈。效果亦類似於柔美的喱士或蜘蛛網。
「Gainsborough」款式出現於 2013 春夏「氣候革命」(Climate Revolution) 系列,並以鈀金屬(Palladium)製作呈現。此設計靈感源自法國大革命時期逃離的貴族,他們攜帶鑽石離開,卻只留下鑲座框架,因為框架本身價值較低。