Vivienne Westwood UK
EXPLORATION
Curiosity characterises Vivienne Westwood’s work – she had a thirst for knowledge, always questioning and exploring different approaches. Studying other cultures, from other times and from around the world, investigating other belief systems, aesthetics and traditions to develop new ways of seeing. For over a decade, Vivienne Westwood have collaborated with the Ethical Fashion Initiative of the International Trade Centre, United Nations, creating accessories collections with artisans in Kenya and Burkina Faso to celebrate indigenous craft.
This space explores the theme of exploration – and how Westwood’s work interacts with different cultures, philosophies, and methodologies – reflecting Westwood’s own belief in the validity of different ways of thinking and her consistent rejection of orthodoxy. Connected with her love of Do it Yourself, Westwood often used materials in unexpected contexts or settings, reflecting the ingenuity of human creation around the world, and the different cultural capital given to, for instance, objects of mass western consumption in other societies.
“The only place to find ideas is by looking at what people did in the past. It’s the way you can be original. You can’t be original by just wanting to do something. Nothing comes from a vacuum. It is impossible to be creative unless you have a link with the past and tradition. You cannot merely have a desire to create something and attempt to do it without learning from the techniques of the past” – Vivienne Westwood
AUDREY NECKLACE
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2011 Collection
Brass
Debuted in Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2001 Exploration collection, this necklace uses the orb motif but applies gilded embellishment, tooled and granulated. Highly sophisticated, the decoration is based on Ancient Greek jewellery, a constant source of inspiration for Westwood, where such complex techniques were in use from around 2000 BCE, alongside details such as the amphora droplets and rosettes forming the chain. Many motifs in Westwood’s jewellery were drawn directly from images in the publication Greek Gold: Jewellery of the Classical World, a catalogue to accompany a 1994 exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The Audrey style features the house's signature orb motif, recalling Vivienne's vision of taking tradition into the future. The design of this piece emulates the look of antique jewellery particularly from Ancient Greece, which Vivienne was passionate about.
PERSEPHONE WIG
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 Collection
Brass / Crystals / Cord Found / Broken Jewellery Pieces
Drawing inspiration from personal travels, this extraordinary wig is inspired by observing street-traders who sell inexpensive jewellery and trinkets on beaches in India. Their wares are often attached to their head with cords, to leave their hands free. This lo-fi look is here translated into a theatrical headpiece named after Persephone, the goddess of Greek myth, the daughter of Zeus and wife of Hades, queen of the underworld. The silhouette of the wig is reminiscent of the profile of the goddess as seen in ancient statuary.
The Persephone Wig takes inspiration from jewellery merchants in India, who would have too many goods to carry, and so would tie some of the jewellery pieces to their own heads - creating a wig-like look. This piece appeared in the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 collection, featuring elements of brass, crystals and broken jewellery pieces.
RENATTA EARRINGS
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Spring-Summer 2016 Collection
Brass / Plated Resin / Nylon Cord
These earrings propose contradictory ideas of worth in a single item: the main body of the items, constructed from glistening brass-plated resin, resemble globules of gold, but they are strung together with utilitarian nylon cord in lurid pink. Nevertheless, the form and even structure of the earrings themselves resemble the triple-drop girandole-style earrings popular in 18th century Europe, and often referenced by Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler.
The Renatta style is influenced by British Paganism, featuring elements of cords and metal-like pebbles, reminiscent of tying objects to vans. The style appeared in the Gold Label Spring-Summer 2016 'Exploration' collection.
MARIOLA NECKLACE
Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 Collection
Brass / Crab Pincers / Gemstones / Coins
What constitutes decoration, preciousness, even a gem? Playing off the tradition of coral jewellery – dating back at least to ancient Rome, where it was believed to protect children and ward against evil – this necklace proposes an array of subterranean objects, including shells and crab pincers, alongside oxidised metal and glass coins. The whole resembles treasure recovered from a sunken galleon - another interpretation of the notion of exploration.
This piece assembles elements of shells, inspired by pieces found at the beach, complete with masculine, hardware inspired details. The style appeared in the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2020 collection, titled 'Rock Me Amadeus' - complete with an oversized tag with the house's signature branding.